From Red Mountain to the Columbia Gorge
As we left Red Mountain to head to Syncline Winery in the Columbia Gorge, rather than taking the highway, we took a shortcut up through the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, which is just south of the Yakima Valley. The region is on an anticline of the Yakima Fold Belt. The area gets strong winds, which means thicker skins on the berries and low disease pressure.
This drive curved through the mountains and opened to what felt like a high plateau. This is Ag land, and the roads here were straight and long. Eventually, we ended at the Columbia Gorge in Paterson and got on the 14, which winds along the North side of the Gorge. You can watch the terrain change from high desert to that Pacific Northwest Green.
Syncline Winery on the Columbia Gorge
Syncline Winery sits in the transitional zone between these two climates. I remember Craig at Troon telling me transitional zones were the most interesting to grow in.
The Columbia Gorge AVA spans the Gorge, taking in both Washington and Oregon covering 191,000 acres total with 950 total acres planted, 381 of those in Washington. (https://www.washingtonwine.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/AVA-Profiles_Columbia-Gorge.pdf)
The vineyard and winery are near Lyle, about 1/2 way between Hood River and the Dalles on the Washington side of the Gorge.
We pulled up, were greeted by the winery dogs, and watched as James Mantone, the winemaker, ran the forklift with bins to the hopper for the press. They were pressing off some of their red wines today and getting things cleaned up and ready for another pick the following day.
James took a break from the winery and walked us up the hill to the Steep Creek Ranch vineyard. On our last visit, he had just planted some Furmint, the grape best known in Austria and used for Tokaji. Those vines had since grown up.
This vineyard is farmed with organic and biodynamic philosophies and practices but is not certified. Biodynamics requires animal integration, and this property is not native to livestock. In fact, James has seen several cougars that roam the property, so keeping sheep? Well, I suppose if he wanted to supplement the cougars’ diet!
James also purchases grapes from some of the finest vineyards in the region. I remember speaking to him about the growing practices in their sourced vineyards when we visited in 2019. James was clear that he respected these farmers, their fruit and their practices. Telling experienced growers how to grow their fruit, was not something that felt right to do.
Since that time, he has gradually spoken to them about his growing techniques and asked if they might be open to using those on the blocks they are growing for him, and the growers have been receptive. It is nice to see a new openess to these methods in the region. I suppose it doesn’t hurt that the wines from his estate come out so dynamic and delicious.
Michael got out the drone, and we turned to take in the view. These grapes are spoiled with tremendous views of the Columbia Gorge and the Columbia River below, as well as Mt. Hood off in the distance. It poked its head in and out of clouds while we were there. This is truly one of the most spectacular vineyard views I have ever had the joy of taking in.
We talked about farming practices and new ideas for natural teas based on native flowers and plants before heading back to the winery. He is experimenting with a blackberry leaf tea. This was harvest, and while Emily, his Assistant Winemaker, was handling things while he showed us around, there was still work to be done.
Michael followed the work in the winery, and we captured a few more shots before heading back down to the Gorge.
Off to the Willamette Valley
We were heading to Hillsboro in the northern part of the Willamette Valley for the night. The idea was to arrive before it was too late to have dinner before checking in, and we opted for the scenic instead of the fastest route.
The 14 is 2 lanes and runs along the edge of the Gorge on the Washington side. The views are spectacular, and we were blessed with little traffic as we watched the sun slowly set through the pines.
We arrived in Hillsboro and enjoyed dinner at a McMenamins. This was Imbrie Hall at the Cornelius Pass Roadhouse. The Hall is named for the family who settled here in the 1840s.
The property is filled with trees and hanging lights. There was outdoor seating with firepits, but we opted for the cozy inside.
We gobbled up a couple of burgers and tots as well as a beer or two from the McMenamins line. Mine was made onsite. (Local, my friends, is delicious and provides great character).
More to come in “The Harvest Diaries”
Watch for more of our “Harvest Diaries!” We will be heading next to the Montinore and Beckham in the Willamette Valley and later to California to visit Tablas Creek in Paso Robles and Beckmen in Santa Barbara.
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