We arrived mid-day in Santa Barbara. A bit nappy and definitely hungry, it was sadly too early to check in to the Hamlet Inn in Solvang for a nap, but not too late to get breakfast.
We headed to Solvang and went to Paula’s Pancake House, where they serve breakfast all day since breakfast was what we were craving. After a leisurely meal of Danish pancakes and sausage, we decided to head to Los Olivos to our favorite tasting spot, Carhartt’s back patio, where we needed to pick up our club shipment anyway.
While we were there, it occurred to us that the Beckmen Tasting room might be open, and while we were to spend the morning with Steve Beckmen in the vineyard and winery tomorrow, we had not tasted their wines in a bit, and this was the perfect opportunity.
A tasting and a conversation at Beckmen Vineyards Thomas and Judith Beckmen Estate
When we arrived, we had to wait for a tractor moving bins between winery buildings to get to the parking. The driver of that tractor was Steve Beckmen himself, so we stopped to say hello.
Steve took us to the tasting room and then returned to finish his work at the winery for the day. As we began our tasting, about two wines in, Steve joined us.
I’ll admit, our tasting notes became less detailed from that point onward as our conversation shifted to discussing this year’s harvest and Steve’s journey into the world of biodynamics.
The Thomas and Judith Beckmen Estate Vineyard lies within the Los Olivos District AVA, but it is also situated in the broader Santa Ynez Valley AVA. This larger AVA includes the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, Happy Canyon AVA, Los Olivos District AVA, and the Ballard Canyon AVA.
The Beckmen Vineyard at Purisima Mountain is located in the Ballard Canyon AVA. They purchased the Purisima Mountain site in 1996 and started planting the following year. Steve had a friend from college who successfully cultivated a biodynamic vegetable garden, which was flourishing.
During a visit to the Rhône Valley, Steve met Philippe Armenier, a renowned advocate of Biodynamic Viticulture. Philippe and Steve’s paths crossed again multiple times at various Rhône producer events held in California.
Eventually, Steve hired Philippe as a consultant to oversee the implementation of biodynamic practices in their Purisima Mountain Vineyard. They began experimenting with biodynamic techniques in 2002 on a specific section of Syrah grapes called Block Six.
This particular block is now famous for its exceptional fruit quality. Impressed by the rapid success, they decided to implement biodynamic practices throughout the entire Purisima Mountain Property.
In 2008, they achieved their Demeter Certification, becoming the first vineyard in Santa Barbara County to receive this distinction. Currently, there are only a handful of biodynamic vineyards in the area.
When it comes to this crazy harvest, Steve is pretty happy. They started harvest on September 19th. When we visited in late October, they were still looking at quite a bit more harvest.
In fact, it was not until November 14th that they finished harvesting for the season. Long, slow, and manageable. He expects that the wines this year will be beautiful.
This vintage was so odd in California, with heavy spring rains that caused shatter in many areas as the vines were in bloom. The summer remained cool, without the heat spikes that the vignerons have become accustomed to in recent years.
Harvest was later, after spending years getting earlier and earlier. I guess that is why we call it “climate change.” If there is one thing I have heard from winemakers around the globe is that the only thing predictable about weather and climate these days is its unpredictability.
Luckily for many of the wineries we spoke with, they have had a slow and steady harvest, allowing them time to bring in fruit in a steady stream without having to quickly empty tanks and make room for too many bins.
Many winemakers have time for extra care for each of the wines as they come in without the rush of a compacted harvest.
The following morning, we drove out to the Thomas and Judith Beckmen Estate Vineyard to catch the crew harvesting the long block of Mourvèdre that grows on the roadside as you drive into the property. Steve had mentioned yesterday that since they had a lull in harvest, he decided to pick this Mourvèdre a little early and make rosé.
I asked Steve about biodynamic practices on this property, where their winery and tasting room are located. On this property, he uses the practices but is not certified.
Given its proximity to neighboring farms, there is a potential risk of contamination from their spraying activities. It is worth noting that the vegetable farm adjacent to the vineyard has recently transitioned to organic practices.
He also mentioned the difficulty with equipment. Many biodynamic preps are meant to be used immediately upon mixing, and he would need two sets of equipment. (A problem I remember Clay at Montinore mentioning.)
We followed the crew to the winery and watched a bit of pressing and cleaning, and then Steve took us out to the Purisima Mountain Vineyard. Just one canyon over; it’s not too far, but the winding road at the top of Ballard Canyon is not for the faint of heart.
The property is set back from the road on a private driveway. It sits sandwiched between Stolpman to the east and Jonata to the west.
Purisima Mountain Vineyard
Purisima Mountain has 365 acres in total, with 126 acres planted. As we walked part of the vineyard, Steve mentioned that he had pulled out a block and thought he might leave it unplanted. He likes the open space.
After doing a brief interview with Steve on the hill beneath a coastal oak with the famous Block Six in the background, Steve drove us up to the highest point in the vineyard.
Here, at 1150 feet above sea level, you have astounding views of the Santa Ynez Valley. The low point of this vineyard is still at 750 feet.
A few years ago, during a Press Weekend, we had the opportunity to visit Steve’s Purisima Mountain Vineyard in Ballard Canyon. During our visit, we filmed Steve talking about various vineyard practices, such as leaf thinning and pruning.
I vividly remember trying my best to keep pace with Steve as we trekked to the highest point of the property, where we were treated to breathtaking views of the valley.
Surprisingly, the topic of biodynamics did not come up during that trip, and it wasn’t until about a year ago, when we started working on this project, that I discovered the vineyard’s biodynamic practices.
Now, on this current trip, we would make sure to delve into that aspect.
We proceeded to drive down to pay a visit to the cows. Biodynamic agriculture requires the presence of livestock on the premises, aiming for a self-sustaining farm system.
Additionally, the preparations involve utilizing cow horns and manure ideally sourced from animals raised on the same soil. The herd that Steve has is small. As we pull up, he points the cows out by name and mentions that they like head rubs. A few head toward the fence to greet him.
He pulls out cookies that they eat out of his hand. They look a little warily at Michael and I. You can see the intelligence and sweetness in their eyes. They are treated well here, and they are happy. There is a sense of communication and understanding in their eyes.
Most of the wineries we have visited that employ livestock in the vineyard use sheep. However, we did meet Marcel Zanolari in Northern Italy, who had goats. Biodynamics recommends cows.
It makes sense since the Preparation 500 requires the manure of a lactating cow. (BTW, one of Steve’s cows is pregnant). Most of the vineyard owners I speak with say it is impossible for them because the cows are too big, and the horns get stuck in the trellising wires.
Steve’s vineyards are planted to wide rows and he says he has not had a problem. He prefers cows. They are cleaner, he says; sheep are smelly.
We pass the gardens at the foot of the vineyard, where they and the crew grow vegetables for their own use. This garden adds to the biodiversity of the property and provides a garden for the staff that builds community.
As Steve drives us back to where we left our car, we stop to look at some of the soil. Despite being slightly parched during this time of the year, it still is rich and full of fertility.
The customary visit from the Demeter inspector occurs during winter when Steve says that the soil is at its lowest point. He wishes they would come in Spring when the ground here is teaming with life.
We take a last look at the vineyard and say our goodbyes. We will be back, but for now, Steve is back to work, and we are off to catalog and document all the footage at home in Vegas.
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